You need different dies to set different eyelets. Dies are the little tools which help to set the eyelets properly either by pliers or by hammer. Prym make it easy by providing an all inclusive eyelet kit which includes a set of dies that fit the separate Prym pliers which in turn do a marvellous job of not only punching a small hole for the eyelet, but setting them too, with hardly any effort.
However, these pliers only work with Prym eyelets and the same is true of all other eyelets - they only work with the die's that are made for them. Annoying, but true. This tutorial shows specifically how to grommet a typical corset, but the technique is sound for any occasion where fabric needs to be grommetted. The setter and the grommets shown are size 0 that may be purchased at most any hardware store, fabric store, craft store, or corsetry supply store, as well as many locations online.
Grommets can be any size needed, but be certain that the setter you are using is for the same size. A heavier setter will tend to work better and last longer. Table-mounted and floor-mounted presses are lovely devices that ensure an even set every time, but they are very expensive, amounting to a luxury item for many of us. I strongly recommend using a rubber or rawhide mallet to set the grommets. A hammer will work, but will be more jarring and more prone to un-even setting.
The only other essential piece of equipment is the stiletto, which I purchased at a fabric store. Clover is the only company I know of that makes the properly shapped stilletto. It must have a fine point, which tapers to a thick handle. This is what you will use to make the holes for the grommets when setting in woven materials.
A hole punch will cut all the threads, which will create a very weak point in the garment where it needs to be strongest. In the case of non-woven materials like leather, pvc, or plastic, a hole-punch just smaller in diameter than the grommet should be used on the non-woven material ONLY.
Roll-pinning Everything was flat-pinned, not roll-pinned. Some roll-pinning was done on the side panels. Seams Lock-stitched seams; allowances were not trimmed or clipped at curves. Seams were trimmed and flat-felled. Boning channels Double-boned at the seams, sandwiched between two layers of coutil. Used to be a slightly long-line corset but I later shortened the hips so it is more of a cincher now. Material 4 layers including the interfacing: brocade fashion fabric fused to interfacing, then flatlined to interlining of coutil and another lining of coutil.
Construction 6-panel pattern. Seams were lock-stitched stitched twice at the seams, the allowances were pressed open. Bones are sandwiched between the two layers of coutil. Binding The binding at top and bottom are made out of commercial hot pink cotton bias tape, machine stitched on both sides. Modesty panel Suspended modesty panel made from brocade fused to twill, and stiffened with plastic canvas. Boning 22 steel bones in this corset not including the busk.
Grommets There are 30 2-part size X00 eyelets 15 on each side. No pulling away of fabric yet but they are very small so many types of fat cord is hard to thread through. About 5 meters and not really long enough for my tastes. I think I may change out the laces for some longer ones. Price If I were to re-make this corset, I would roll-pin the panels and also use wonder-under or stitch-witchery to directly fuse the brocade to a layer of coutil to eliminate wrinkling.
If you would like more complete information and side notes about the corset, you can watch the video on YouTube here: Fit, length Gently curved, gives a slim silhouette without a lot of cinch. Good coverage in the bust. Material Two layers; the outside has alternating panels of smocked shiny black PVC and flocked black and silver floral polyester brocade.
The inside cotton twill. Panels are top-stitched at the seams, with seam allowances always pressed toward the brocade side. Internal boning channels laid down made of black twill. Binding The binding at top and bottom are black shiny PVC. Modesty panel Unboned modesty panel, 7.
Swing Hooks 5 large silver swing hooks riveted to half-inch-wide bones in the center front. The bones in front are Very strong, no sign of breaking or falling out. I like that there were 5 swing hooks used — the extra hook a the waist prevents bowing of the bones in this area. Grommets There are 24, 2-part size 0 grommets 12 on each side , finished in nickel. Close up of the corset, showing the silver floral brocade, textured PVC, and swing hook closure Final Thoughts: This is such a fun corset.
Pointed in the front and in back. Material Almost entirely 2. Construction Pattern is from page 88 of the book Corsets and Crinolines. The horizontal ribbons were draped into the correct shape and tacked on the sides, then sandwiched between two pieces of coutil-flatlined-to-ribbon vertical panels which were then topstitched. The bones sandwiched in the vertical panels only. Binding There is only binding at the top and bottom of the vertical panels, also made with blue ribbon.
Modesty panel None. Busk Standard flexible busk, about 9. Boning 14 bones in this corset; 8 bones on the side panels 4 on each side , 2 flats on either side of the busk and another 4 in the back sandwiching the grommets.
Grommets 26 gold X00 2-part grommets 13 on each side. Gold was the only colour I had at the time. Laces Simple white round shoe-lace style cord, about 7 meters.
Custom fit ribbon cinchers often are more expensive. If you would like more complete information and side notes about the corset, you can watch the video on YouTube here: Fit, length Victorian Hourglass shape, nice moderate curves. Stops just at the upper hips, it is not longline.
Material 3 main layers — the outer satin, a thick cotton non-woven interfacting as interlining, and black twill lining. Construction Made from a 4-panel pattern. The satin and the heavy interlining are either flat-felled or fused together depending on whether the interfacing was fusible or not , then those panels are topstitched at the seams. Bones are placed either in the seam allowances between the panels, or internal channels are made with twill tape. Binding Binding at top and bottom are made from black satin bias tape.
Folded under nicely on the outside; on the inside the raw edge is serged to prevent fraying and just stitched down flat. Waist tape None. Boning 12 bones total in this corset, 6 on each side.
All of them are plastic. These are heavier-duty polypropeline bones but I would still prefer steel. Grommets There are 18 2-part size 0 grommets 9 on each side and have a medium flange. Grommets are very sturdy, no popping out, no fraying. However I would have preferred to have 10 more grommets because lacing down is difficult on the top and bottom.
Laces The laces I received with this corset are reportedly not the original laces. The laces that I have read now come with the corset are black shoelace-style laces. Product photo for underbust victorian corset from Gallery Serpentine Final Thoughts: This… was not my favourite style.
If you would like more complete information and side notes about the corset, you can watch the video on YouTube here: Fit, length Dramatic curves, extreme hourglass. This is a longline corset coming over my hips. Material 3 main layers. Construction Made from a 6-panel pattern so the corset itself is 12 panels total. It looks as though the coutil panels were lock-stitched at the seams, the allowances were pressed open.
The layers are joined together by stitching in the ditch between the panels and also by making boning channels. The stitching is perfect on the outside, but the seams are wiggly on the inside.
The lining does not float. Bones are sandwiched between the two layers of twill lining and interlining. Modesty panel There an unboned modesty panel in the back made from two layers of just satin. Easily removable if you want to remove it. No modesty placket on the front. Keeps the front very straight. Grommets There are 30 2-part size 00 grommets 15 on each side.
Black finish to match the rest of the corset, they have a medium lip around and are spaced equidistantly. Josephine longline corset by Isabella Corsetry — product photo in their made-t-measure line might be a tad curvier than their standard pattern Final Thoughts: This corset continues to be one of my favourite off-the-rack underbust corsets. If you would like more information and side notes about the corset and costume, you can watch the videos on YouTube here: Fit, length Self-drafted underbust corset with a peaked front top and bottom edge.
I took 3 horizontal measurements and 5 vertical measurements to draft this. Construction Drafted from a 5-panel pattern. Lining was flatlined to ticking and lockstitched between the seams, then joined to another layer of ticking wrong sides together via the sandwich method.
Sandwiched boning channels were sewn through those 3 layers, then the fashion fabric was redesigned to look like a ribbon corset and was tacked down at center front and back seams; floating in all other places.
Embellishment was hand-sewn. Waist tape 1-inch wide waist tape, invisibly stitched between the two layers of ticking. Busk None; closed front. Boning Only 12 bones including center front; all half-inch wide steels. Two at center front and one on each seam between panels; only a bone on the outer edge of the grommets, not the inner edge.
Grommets There are 22, 2-part size X00 grommets 11 on each side , finished in gold to match the rest of the corset. This corset being the first time I hammered in grommets, the back of some of them are rough and catch a bit on the laces.
Measurements both circumference and vertical were taken to fit my body; quite comfortable with no pinching. One issue with the bones in the back bowing outwards and twisting so creates a gap at the waistline. The outer fashion fabric is red satin coutil, twill interlining and lightweight cotton lining inside.
It looks as though the coutil panels were lock-stitched stitched twice at the seams, the allowances were pressed open and zigzag stitched again. Bones are sandwiched between the satin coutil and the twill, and the cotton lining is primarily floating. Stitched down horizontally across all the panels of the lining so is not invisible but still cannot be felt. Modesty panel Unboned modesty panel, 4. I would have preferred a slightly wider panel. Boning 22 steel bones in this corset not including the center front, ALL flat bones.
Grommets There are 20 2-part size 00 eyelets 10 on each side. On the underside there are no splits. Heavenly Corsets red satin coutil wasp-waisted training corset, modeled by Elle, the corsetiere. Final Thoughts: I received a mixed reaction from this review.
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Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email. Binding at top and bottom are made from commercial black satin bias strips, machine stitched on both sides. One-inch-wide waist tape running through the corset, hidden between the layers. There is a modesty panel on the back, made of a layer of black satin and a layer of twill. There are 20 2-part size 00 grommets 10 on each side , with a small flange, spaced equidistantly.
Heavyweight powernet quite stretchy for most of the panels, and black satin coutil for the first and last panels, the boning channels and the diamond waist tape. Essentially a 6-panel pattern although the last panel is separated into two to make 7 panels. The diamond detail made from satin coutil extends into a waist tape that is slightly more than 1 inch wide, and placed on the external side of the corset, secured down at the boning channels.
There are 26 2-part size 00 grommets 13 on each side. Some old black cotton shoe-lace style. This corset was quite time consuming due to the flat-felled seams and external channels and waistband.
Center front is Most seams are topstitched as I was afraid that lockstitching would cause the PVC to become too perforated and tear apart. However at the busk, seams were lockstitched nonetheless as it looked better. Some edges of the ribbon were left raw, as folding those edges under would be too bulky. There is binding at the top and bottom of the vertical panels only; the ribbon panels do not have binding.
I also left the inside edge of the binding raw — this is normal with binding made out of leathers or vinyls.
Although it is quite flexible, having 3 layers of PVC ribbon surrounding the busk makes the front panel quite stiff and sturdy. Only 8 bones total in this corset not including the busk , only boned on the vertical panels. There are 20 2-part size 00 grommets 10 on each side. I used self-piercing grommets and a new press to insert these, and they work very well with the PVC.
There are no splits and the grommets are holding up quite well with regular use. You will definitely need a square knot or bow not a round one to keep your corset securely tied at the back. Ribbon corsets in general are not particularly difficult but they are time-consuming and require a bit of pre-planning. Blue areas are 2 layers — the outer brocade and the inner cotton twill. Binding at top and bottom are made from commercial black satin bias cut ribbon. Unboned modesty panel, 8 inches wide made from polyester pinstripe on the outside and black twill on the underside.
There are 24, 2-part size 00 grommets 12 on each side , finished in nickel. Black flat nylon braided shoe-lace style. Gives a nice hourglass shape — this is a Level 3 silhouette, gives the most extreme curves. Binding at top and bottom are made from matching maroon satin, double-thickness. One-inch-wide waist tape running through the corset, hidden between the layers and glued to the lining.
There is a modesty panel on the back, made of a layer of satin and a layer of twill.
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